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Fire at the Coach & Horses !

April 4, 2014 by William Dargue Leave a Comment

When C E Bateman designed a new Coach & Horses inn on Castle Bromwich Green, he little imagined how brief its life would be.

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A public house with the name of the Coach & Horses has stood on the Green at Castle Bromwich since the 18th century; the earliest record takes it back to before 1776. The original inn was located in front of the present one where the entrance to the car park is now. Although it was very close to the tollgate on the Chester Road turnpike, this was not an inn where stage coaches would stop; rather it served the rural community as a local drinking place.

Before the Second World War there was a movement to change the image of English pubs from street-corner, largely men-only establishments with a somewhat disreputable reputation to large, well-designed village inns where a man might take his wife and family for a meal. Local Arts & Crafts architect, C E Bateman was responsible for a number of these ‘reformed pubs’ including The Red Lion in Kings Heath, the Tyburn House and the Coach & Horses.

The new pub was built in stone in a Tudor style and topped a thatched roof which led to its demise on 7 May 1938. A spark from a chimney landed on the roof where fire quickly took hold. That winter had been a wet one, but it had hardly rained since; the problem of an inadequate water supply was a major factor which thwarted efforts to extinguish the blaze.

The emergency call was made by a local man from the telephone kiosk which used to stand in front of the telephone exchange on the Chester Road by the Green. He was in the middle of making a call when there was a banging on the window of the kiosk. An individual was pointing to the Coach & Horses where smoke could seen rising from the roof of the building.

The fire brigade at Ward End were called, the station being some 3 miles from Castle Bromwich. In the meantime, the telephone caller ran to the village policeman’s house. This is now the building on the left of the pub’s car park entrance. Some fire-fighting equipment was supposed to have been kept there belonging to the Castle Bromwich volunteer fire brigade, but there was nothing of much use. An old canvas hose pipe was unrolled, but failed to give any service. And the smoke grew thicker.

Eventually the Coleshill fire engine arrived manned by a crew of three. Three more fire fighters arrived on a motorbike which had a sidecar; and the rest of the fire crew turned up on the next bus. By now the fire was taking hold. Connecting their hose to the mains water supply, they made ready to extinguish the flames, but the pressure was so low that little water came out.

The Ward End engine then arrived and another from Bordesley Green, but with little water in the mains, they were forced take the engines to fill their tanks at various places. A hose was laid along the Chester Road to the duck pond at Whateley Green, which they drained almost empty. One of the engines went to the pond by Shard End Farm (where the Harlequin doctor’s surgery is now) and the other to the old gravel pit on Packington Avenue.

The officer who lived in the police house was police sergeant Billy Whate. He and the pub landlord busied themselves getting the stock out of the building and piling it up in the garden of the police house for safe keeping.

However, the efforts of the firemen were in vain. They could do nothing to save the Coach & Horses. And seeing that the bottles of beer and spirits and wine were certainly doomed, the firemen and the locals quickly helped themselves before the flames could do their worst.

The fire crews had more success in rescuing the alcohol than in saving the building. Some hours later, some of them were in a very poor way, having drunk so much. As the Ward End fire engine set off to return to its station, a bottle of whisky fell out of the driver’s tunic and smashed to the ground. No more ado than he climbed down from his cab, got another bottle and drove off again. The Coleshill crew were in such a state that one of the Bordesley Green brigade had to drive their fire engine back to its depot.

The pub was soon rebuilt in the same style, probably using the original plans – but this time Bateman had it built with a tiled roof.

Filed Under: Birmingham Places, Castle Bromwich, Castle Bromwich Roads & Pubs, Uncategorized

Alex Henshaw 1912 – 2007: Chief Spitfire Test Pilot

April 4, 2014 by William Dargue 1 Comment

Alex Henshaw was the son of a wealthy Lincolnshire family. Flying from the age of 19, he made a name for himself in aeroplane races in the 1930s.

But Alex Henshaw is best remembered as the chief test pilot of the Spitfires which were made at the Castle Bromwich aircraft factory.

Alex Henshaw’s flying career began early: in 1937 he won the first air race from London to the Isle of Man and the following year achieved the solo record for return flight to Cape Town. When the Second World War began Henshaw became a test pilot for the Vickers Armstrong company working on Wellington bombers at Weybridge. However, he did not find the work inspiring and was on the point of resigning when he was offered a job testing Spitfires at Vickers’ Southampton factory. He was transferred to Castle Bromwich in 1940 to take up the post of chief test pilot in charge of a team of 25.

Alex Henshaw talking with Prime Minister Winston Churchill at Castle Bromwich after a Spitfire demonstration in 1941. Image from the Imperial War Museum online collection now in the public domain.
Alex Henshaw talking with Prime Minister Winston Churchill at Castle Bromwich after a Spitfire demonstration in 1941. Image from the Imperial War Museum online collection now in the public domain.

Castle Bromwich was a new factory set up by the automotive magnate, Lord Nuffield and manned by car workers who did not initially cope well with the precision tasks required to construct the technically advanced Spitfire.

When Henshaw arrived at Castle Bromwich for his first test flight, he found nothing ready, and there was clearly tension between the civilian workforce, management and the RAF personnel working there.

Eventually the first Spitfire to be trialled was made ready and towed from the factory across the Chester Road and onto Castle Bromwich Aerodrome. Henshaw took it up and, decided, for the sake of morale, to show off his aerobatic skills (something that came very easily to him), to demonstrate just what the aircraft could do and hopefully to inspire the workforce with this remarkable plane.

And indeed, when he touched down, there had been an amazing change of atmosphere. It had taken over a year with many technical hitches to produce this first Spitfire and no-one at the plant had ever seen a Spitfire fly. Now everyone was congratulating each other on the success of the flight and beginning to look like a team.

Having taken a year to build the first plane, by June 1940 ten more were made and soon production figures reached 320 units a month.

At first Henshaw had been dubious about Castle Bromwich as a suitable site for the aircraft factory and his test flights. The aerodrome had only a grass strip, there were pylons, factories, houses and a sewage works, but it soon became a home from home for him and his team of test pilots. The cooling towers of Hams Hall power station became a familiar landmark to the pilots as they returned from their test flights.

If Alex Henshaw was a star turn at Castle Bromwich, he was shortly to become a Birmingham hero. When the Lord Mayor of Birmingham launched a week-long appeal in the city to raise funds for building Spitfires for the war effort, the chief test pilot was asked make a fly-past over the City Centre. Taking off from Castle Bromwich airfield he flew towards town and carried out a series of manoeuvres. His plan had been to do a number of vertical rolls over the High Street, which he did, but he ran out of height on the last one. Over the fields of Castle Bromwich that wouldn’t have been a problem, but over the City Centre with crowds of people watching from the streets below, it could have ended in disaster. Unable to complete the last roll Henshaw was flying upside down.

In an inverted position he flew the length of Broad Street towards the Civic Hall (now Baskerville House in Centenary Square) rather lower than he should, flipped the Spitfire the right way up over the Civic Hall and banked up and away.

After landing he was interviewed about the incident by the police and asked to make a statement. With his usual bravado he made light of it saying that the Lord Mayor had given him the ‘all clear’ and that was good enough for him. However, he was aware that this time he had perhaps gone too far.

Nonetheless, his showmanship had a dramatic effect on the Birmingham public and its perception of the City’s role in the war effort. In that week alone contributions to the Lord Mayor’s Spitfire fund enabled four more aircraft to be built.

Henshaw remained chief test pilot at Castle Bromwich until after the war. He later expressed surprise that his tour of duty lasted so long. His job and that of his team was to find any faults with the planes so that the RAF pilots did not discover them when in action. His job as a troubleshooter meant that he pushed the Spitfires to the limit with rolls, loops, climbs and banks and he had expected on any flight to come crashing to the ground.

The-Sentinel-Spitfire-Island-Castle-Bromwich
Spitfire Island and Factory, now making Jaguar Cars.
Photo: Martyn Loach

During his time at Castle Bromwich, he and his team tested over 3000 planes, Spitfires and Lancaster bombers and left a lasting impression on the City.  The Castle Bromwich factory built over half of the Spitfires that were ever made, as well as some 350 Lancaster bombers. The plant is now the Jaguar factory; Castle Bromwich Aerodrome is now Castle Vale housing estate.

In the year 2000, a sculpture known as ‘The Sentinel’ designed by Tim Tolkien, was unveiled by Alex Henshaw.

The Sentinel Tim Tolkein
The Sentinel by Tim Tolkein.
Photo: Martyn Loach

Representing three Spitfires in starburst formation, the aluminium sculpture stands 16 metres high and has given its name to the road junction on the Chester Road at the entrance to the Castle Vale now known as Spitfire Island.

Alex Henshaw died in 2007 at the age of 94.

Filed Under: Alex Henshaw Spitfire Test Pilot, Birmingham Places, Castle Bromwich, Castle Bromwich In World War 1 & 2

The new bells of Castle Bromwich, recast in 1952

April 4, 2014 by William Dargue Leave a Comment

A brass plaque at the back of Castle Bromwich church records that in 1952 the six bells were recast, thanks to a legacy from Lucy Williams (1871-1949) in memory of her husband John (1872-1926).

John Williams, usually known as Jack, was the Castle Bromwich village blacksmith, a churchwarden and a long-time bellringer at Castle Bromwich church, he is buried in the church graveyard.

John’s father was also John Williams, born in 1837, the son of James Williams; all were local blacksmiths. James’s father, another John Williams was also a blacksmith with his forge on the Chester Road where Cedar Avenue now runs.

And the churchwardens’ accounts show that yet another John Williams was paid in 1785 for re-hanging the bells. He would almost certainly be an ancestor of John and he too was also the village blacksmith at the time. It is recorded that he was paid £5: 16 shillings: 5 pence for the job. This was a large amount of money in 1785 worth perhaps £10,000s worth of labour at today’s values. But lowering the bells, presumably mending the frame and rehanging the bells was a substantial piece of work.

Lucy née Baumber was born in the tiny village of Digby in Lincolnshire some 12 miles south of the county town. How she came to meet John Williams from Castle Bromwich is not known, but the couple were married in 1899 probably at St Thomas’ Church, Digby. The marriage is recorded in Sleaford Registration District which includes Digby.

The Williams' blacksmith shop on Castle Bromwich Green
The Williams’ blacksmith shop on Castle Bromwich Green

They came to live on Castle Bromwich Green, the little 18th-century house to the right of the Coach & Horses, which at that time was a small local pub, not the large building that stands there today. John was set up with his father as a blacksmith with his younger brother Arthur as an apprentice. Arthur was known locally as Clogman on account of the boots he wore. The sign on the house advertised the business as a blacksmiths and coach builders, John Williams & Sons. John specialised in shoeing horses while his brother’s forte was making wagon wheels.

As the business grew, it was decided that Arthur should remain in the old house with his wheelwright’s business while John would set up a new forge on the other side of the Green. By this time motor cars were becoming a more common sight and John began to undertake repairs on them.

This was in 1923 and there were now plans to build a new road, the Bradford Road. The traffic along the Chester Road through the old village was increasingly becoming a problem. John’s workshop was so close to the route of the new road, that he changed its name from the Forge to the Forge Garage and hoped his business would benefit from the motor cars which would be soon passing close by.

Unfortunately he did not live long enough to see the Bradford Road built, dying at the age of 54 on 26 October 1926.

After his death, Lucy took over running the Forge Garage and the blacksmith’s business, but it must have proved too much for her. Trade directories of 1927 do not record the business.

Lucy lived for another 23 years after her husband’s death and died on 29 December 1949 at the age of 78. She was buried with him in Castle Bromwich graveyard.

The church of St Mary & St Margaret, Castle Bromwich.
The church of St Mary & St Margaret, Castle Bromwich.

In memory of John’s many years as a bellringer, Lucy Williams left a bequest in her will for the church bells to be recast. The ring of six derived from an installation of 1717 paid for by Sir John Bridgeman II of Castle Bromwich Hall. These had been recast from an earlier medieval ring at the church. In 1893 to commemorate the wedding of the Duke of York, the future King George V with Princess Mary of Teck, Charles Carr of Smethwick was commissioned to cast a sixth bell.

However, it was found that the third bell was now out of tune with the new peal. Carr therefore cast a new third. It is not known how the new peal of six sounded. However, it may be that John Williams was never happy with the new bells for his wife to have left such a large sum of money in his memory to have them recast.

The 1717 bells were cast by Joseph Smith of Edgbaston long before the days of scientific tuning. However, studies of Smith’s remaining bells have been undertaken which show the remarkable skill of his casting and the accuracy of the harmonics of his bells. The old Castle Bromwich third bell, which is now in the Roundhouse at Derby College, is testament to this. By Charles Carr’s time, scientific tuning had been discovered and pretty much perfected by some bell founders, though Carr’s success in this field was less secure. It may be that Carr’s bells did not sound good or that they did not fit in with Smith’s earlier bells.

In 1952 the six bells were taken down by Gillett & Johnston, renowned bell founders of Croydon. A new fine-sounding ring was cast using the old metal, some of which dated from the Middle Ages.

Castle Bromwich bells photographed at the Gillett & Johnston foundry in 1952.
Castle Bromwich bells photographed at the Gillett & Johnston foundry in 1952.

The new bells were first officially rung on 22 November 1952 nearly three years after Lucy’s death and 26 years after the death of her husband.

To commemorate the Diamond Anniversary of the bells, St Mary & St Margaret’s bellringers planted bulbs on the grave of the couple; the bulbs which were kindly donated by Hall’s Garden Centre were, appropriately, bluebells. Robert Hall was pleased to contribute to this event. His family’s business was founded in Castle Bromwich also in 1952 and his parents too are buried in the graveyard. The bells were then rung in memory of the Williams couple.

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Young bellringers planting bluebells on the Williams’ grave.

Filed Under: Birmingham Places, Castle Bromwich, Castle Bromwich Church

Charles Bateman and the ‘Church within a Church’

April 4, 2014 by William Dargue Leave a Comment

Charles Bateman (1863-1947) and his father, also an architect, lived in Rectory Lane at Birnam and Millbrick, which they had themselves designed and built. They are buried in the family plot near the gate in Castle Bromwich graveyard.

A small stone chapel had been built at Castle Bromwich by the 12th century. This was greatly extended with the addition of a large timber building during the 15th century. Then between 1726 and 1730 the timber-framed church was entirely encased in brick in a Renaissance style. Above the north and south doors inside the church is an inscription stating the dates when the church had been ‘rebuilt’. It was therefore assumed in later years that the old church had been demolished and that nothing remained of the earlier buildings.

In 1893 Charles Bateman was commissioned to carry out restoration work on Castle Bromwich church. The uneven damaged floor of stone flags was to be replaced with encaustic tiles, a central heating system was to be installed with pipes and radiators and a figure of Christ ascending in glory was to replace the tablets bearing the Ten Commandments and the Creed in the east window.

(The same year Lord Bradford ordered a sixth bell to be hung in the tower to commemorate the wedding of the Duke of York, who would later become King George V and Princess Mary of Teck, a close friend of Lady Bradford. Charles Carr of Smethwick was employed to cast the bell and to fit a new bell frame to accommodate it.)

Charles Edward Bateman 1863 - 1947
Charles Edward Bateman 1863 – 1947

Before starting work, Bateman decided to make a thorough investigation of the church and to draw up an architectural plan of the building.

There were peculiarities that had puzzled Bateman about the layout of the church. The architect is thought to have been Thomas White of Worcester. He was a pupil of Christopher Wren and well knew the rules of the Renaissance style. And yet the columns of the arcade separating the side aisles from the nave are not aligned with the window piers. Nor are the arches between the columns of classical proportions. These are not mistakes that would have been made by an architect such as Thomas White. Furthermore, the chancel was very large for an 18th-century church when chancels built at that time were often small apsidal additions.

Bateman made a large number of drawings of both the exterior and interior of the building. He also decided to climb up into the church loft to inspect the construction of the roof. High up in the ceiling near the south door is a small trapdoor some 10 metres above the floor. Pushing open the trapdoor, Bateman shone his oil light into the roof-space, and found more than he could have suspected and the answer to his questions about the church’s design.

Here were the slender Georgian roof beams that he had expected to see, but further away in the gloom Bateman could make out a massive structure of large timber beams and trusses and supports that could only be of a medieval date.

Bateman returned to the roof space again and again in the coming weeks making precise drawings of the whole construction, drawings which still exist. The structure appeared to date from the middle of the 15th century. Near the east end some infilling still remained of wattle and daub, showing where the original end wall of the old church was. The Georgian church was longer than its medieval predecessor. At the east end there was a length of wooden moulding indicating the chancel arch with evidence of medieval paintwork. Bateman was probably the first person to have seen the sight since the roof had been ceiled in 1731.

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Roof timbers at the west end of the old church.
Photograph: William Dargue.

The discovery of the medieval roof led the architect then to suspect that the Georgian columns inside the church might conceal medieval timber uprights. He removed part of the wooden cladding on one of the columns in the north aisle and found that beneath the 18th-century plaster there were indeed pillars made from the trunks of enormous ancient oaks that had held up the roof since the 15th century.

Bateman made many architect’s drawings of the building and drew a view of the church conjecturing how it must have looked when it was built around 1450, probably during the reign of Henry VI. He had discovered a unique church building, a timber-framed church encased in 18th brick, and the only one of its kind in the country.

Bateman’s conjectural drawing of the church based on the existing timbers within the Georgian rebuilding.
Bateman’s conjectural drawing of the church based on the existing timbers within the Georgian rebuilding.

Bateman’s investigations did not end there. Remarkably there was more to be revealed.

A drawing of Castle Bromwich Hall and church had been made by Henry Beighton for William Dugdale’s ‘Antiquities of Warwickshire’ which was published in 1730. By that date the hall had probably been rebuilt, but the church would not be finished until 1731. Beighton shows the church rebuilt in brick in Renaissance style, but the chancel is shown made of stone. The chancel is actually built of brick. The local architect suspected that behind the brick might be the Norman stone chapel which had also been encased in brick as had the medieval timber church.

He removed some of the wooden panelling in the chancel to reveal a part of the church that was even older than the rest. Behind the woodwork was a stone wall, part of the original Norman chapel which had been built over 700 years earlier in the early 12th century.

The Georgian church was, in fact, a church within a church and was far older than anyone had ever expected.

Filed Under: Birmingham Places, Castle Bromwich, Castle Bromwich Church

Redcoats at the Bradford Arms

April 4, 2014 by William Dargue Leave a Comment

This story set in Castle Bromwich is told by the Rector of Sutton Coldfield in a book about his own family history. In 1883 Rev William Kirkpatrick Riland Bedford described an event which occurred during the ’45. This was the Jacobite rising of 1745, when Bonnie Prince Charlie, the Young Pretender, tried to regain the British throne for the House of Stuart. Charles Edward Stuart was subsequently decisively defeated by the Duke of Cumberland at the Battle of Culloden in Scotland.

Sailing from France, Bonnie Prince Charlie landed in Scotland and raised his standard at a gathering of the Highland clans. He then marched south with an army of some 6000 Highlanders to claim the throne of England from the House of Hanover.

The Duke of Cumberland was the younger son of George II and the most able general in the English army. At the time he was fighting the French in Flanders in the War of the Austrian Succession, but was quickly brought back to deal with the Jacobite uprising.

It was December 1745 when a regiment of Cumberland’s army marched through Castle Bromwich. They were on their way to face the Young Pretender’s rebel Highland army in Scotland. The Redcoat soldiers had made their way from the south of England via Stonebridge and along the Chester Road.

019b Redcoats - Bradford Arms-1
The Bradford Arms on the Chester Road.

While the troops made their camp on Hodge Hill Common, some of the officers spent the night in comfort at the Bradford Arms. This coaching inn on the Chester Road still thrives to this day.

The officers spent an evening of revelry and consumed a great deal of alcohol. And so it was late the next day, when they were at last in a condition fit to travel. They mounted their horses and rode along the Chester road in the direction of Tamworth to catch up with the regiment of which they had charge.

(Their route took them through Castle Bromwich village, down the steep hill, now only a footpath, to the crossing of the River Tame and to the Tyburn. They then followed Eachelhurst Road through Walmley and along Withy Hill Road to Bassetts Pole.)

Ten miles further on, when they reached Bassett’s Pole, the officer in charge discovered his sword to be missing. Realising that he must have left it at the Bradford Arms, he retraced his steps to recover it.

A Redcoat Officer
A Redcoat Officer

That officer must have been blessed with a good sense of humour. Well over an hour later, he arrived back at the Bradford Arms to find that he had indeed left his sword there. He laughed and declared that he had enjoyed the episode so much that, as long as he should live, he would pay for a banquet to be held there on the anniversary of the day that he had ridden off to fight for King and Country – without his sword.

And, by all accounts, the officer was true to his promise. The Rector of Sutton attested to the fact that there were in Castle Bromwich people who could remember being told the story by witnesses to the event.

*There is another less jolly tale told in Castle Bromwich probably referring to the same occasion when the Redcoats marched against the Jacobites.

As was usual, the regiment sent an advanced guard to ascertain the best route forward. There were maps at that time, but they lacked detail, were often inaccurate and showed few roads.

When the guard arrived from Castle Bromwich at the Tyburn, they asked directions of a man standing outside the Tyburn House Inn. The poor man had no roof to his mouth and the soldiers could not understand anything he said. Denounced him as a spy, the hapless man was taken to the commanding officer, who immediately ordered him to be shot. The order was carried out instantly. The man’s head was struck off and his body was thrown into a ditch at Eachelhurst near Pype Hayes. The head was stuck on a halberd and carried as far as New Shipton just north of Walmley, where the soldiers threw it up into a tree.

Strange to say, in 1827, the body and head of the poor fellow were both found within weeks of each other. The remains of the body were discovered when the Eachelhurst meadows were being drained and, when an ancient oak was felled near New Shipton Farm, the skull found to be embedded in the branches.

Filed Under: Birmingham Places, Castle Bromwich, Castle Bromwich History, Hodge Hill

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I was born in Southport, Lancashire (now Merseyside); my family origins are to be found in the wild hills of Westmoreland. I trained as a teacher at St Peter's College, Saltley, qualifying in 1968 and have now worked as a primary school teacher in Birmingham for well over forty years. Read More…

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